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What size and style you need?

The standard for wheels is best to start with. You can make wheel covers to simulate what you're trying to do. Easier than destroys something that isn't rite from the start. You can also look at castor wheels as an option or medical supply wheels. But for what you want best; just make them.

The center of the wheel is not what you think. The front has a bearing between two pressed half's and the rear has a bushing to drive the rear wheels. You will not be able to do what you think. Better off making your wen style wheels that fit pin hubs. Wcm made 1/2" wheels halfs and Bishracing ...

Bikerbuz wrote: ↑October 16th, 2022, 3:05 am Thank’s Kaye, I’ll be ordering one of the 55 classic wheels to test out

What type wheel hubs you have??? You will be disappointed to know they don't work with 4-6 pin hubs. You will have to modify them???

Gears came in two thickness. 1/4" to reduce weight and to get more gears from bar stock and original 3/8*" Both styles were heat treated.

That's not a pile of gears? Looks like 5 matching sets? !3/27- 19-21 is the range. If gears are 1/4" thick you will need the 1/8 " spacers.

If it has the timing pulley: I haven't figure it out either. I can get the clutch shoe off but the clutch drum is welded on to the shaft on other side. I would just heat the clutch with a torch and the braze weld will come off: If tig welded then it will require a bit more work. If you do figure out...

I converted all mine to ball diff drive. I could use more too. I have been looking for a long time. Chain drive would be easier.

A j-joint.

WOW. What what holding the motor? I never seen one with chain at the motor? NO gear adjustment like the timing belt? I had one 1/4' plate with one mounting hole and my others has two holes. So, I drill the two hole's and moved the motor back and they lined up to use the shorter belt. I replace all t...

On the timing belt side you will see a 1/4" plate bolting the motor to the chassis. From the back of that plate to the back of the frame should be 3-3/8". If the holes line up then your good to go with the shorter belt. The front is fine.

Yes but it depends if there are original old holes behind the motor that will line up with shorter belt? I had one car that had the motor mounted forward but I had two to compare to so I could move the motor back.

The correct way was to mount a idler pully to lift the belt over the frame. Or add additional crossmember in front of the cut out to brace the frame. The stock drive belt was a 3L260 which moves the motor back closer to the rear wheels.

The motor appears to be mounted further forward to provide better steering. I have the same fame but with the ball diff for better cornering. Cutting the fame to allow the belt to pass????? I would move the motor back to the stock location holes if there still there and fix the space. You don't want...

A model number would help?