www.Quarterscalelegends.com

Yaa think?
Is this not the 4-link brackets rather than the wheelie bar brackets?

_________________
Floyd's Autobody/Service Center
Custom Graphics By Design Unlimted
http://www.quarterscaleprostreetberetta.com/
Please light a candle for our dear friend '' Buddy ''
http://buddyone.pets-memories.com/

A brilliant observation! What exactly gave it away?

I assume the wheelie bars are mounted on the rear of the bearing block.. After all,, there not quite visible in that shot!

_________________
Floyd's Autobody/Service Center
Custom Graphics By Design Unlimted
http://www.quarterscaleprostreetberetta.com/
Please light a candle for our dear friend '' Buddy ''
http://buddyone.pets-memories.com/

Engine and clutch mock up. The engine fits nice, and I'll soon make an aluminum mount.

AWESOME looking build. I want to start a project like this too. Could you tell me the wheelbase and track width(outside of tire to outside of tire)? I'm guesssing w/b is about 25". No idea on width though. I was thinking about a Pro Mod build and think that the w/b should be in the 28" range, if they are true 1/4 scale.

Thanks,
Mark

Sorry for the delay. The wheelbase is 24.5" and outside track width is 16". By comparison, a couple of production NASCAR frames I have are at 25.5" for the WB. The easiest way to build a frame is to first purchase the body you want to use, then place the wheels and tires where you want them to give you the track and WB, then build the chassis.

I tried a few engine mounts for the Pro Stock chassis. The first mount was quick-release, boat engine mount : it didn't work. I like the idea of mounting the engine via rubber isolators to reduce radio interference. The latest version of the Pro Stock mounts will work, but the engine should sit a bit lower in the chassis to keep the drive shaft as horizontal as possible. I could MIG weld some steel plates to the frame rails and be done with it, but I like the idea of engine adjustment. The pinion centerline angle is important, and the fewer the univeral joints the better. I'd like to have a 0.500 drive shaft attached to a single, 0.500 coupling on the rear pinion and a drive cup on the clutch bell.

I'm open to other ideas...

1/5 scale cars have a quick release setup. But its ridged. I have one, can take a pic later...

_________________
www.quarterscalelegends.com The Awesome history of 1/4 scale!!

I mounted the fuel cell yesterday between hours 5-6 of Barrett-Jackson reruns on Speed.

CLC, Wow the car is looking good, I'm sorry I sold it ! Can't wait to see the finished project. I'm working on two new drag cars.

Kevin

Car is looking fantastic ! What im waiting to see is a nice vid of this car in action !
But till then, where did u get the scoop and rear wing from?

I purchased the hood scoop on eBay awhile back; I think it was $35. I suspect someone has a master plug they can pull vacuum-molded LEXAN plastic sheet from. I personally think one of the modern Pro Stock scoop designs would look a lot better (e.g. with slight triangle/round) inlet. Making a master plug isn't that hard, but it will take some time to do it right.

For the rear wing, I reviewed a bunch of NHRA Pro Stock photos I've taken at Englishtown, NJ over the years and made a cardboard pattern looking similar to a '94 Oldsmobile Cutlass body. I wanted the 'chute, and wing to be correct. Once I was satisfied with the size of the cardboard template, I went to THE HOME DEPOT and purchased some LEXAN plastic sheet from the Glass / Door department. I cut it to size with a jig saw, smoothed it with sand paper, placed it between blocks of wood in the vice, heated it gently with a propane torch and bent it to the correct the shape. Once it cooled down, the final shape remained. Total cost about $12.

LEXAN plastic sheet is like hot taffy when heated and forms to shapes quite well. It's available at LOWE's and HOME Depot and larger, hobby supply stores. If you screw up a part, just throw it out and try again.

www.YouTube.com has a number of instructional videos on the subject of vacuum forming and fiberglass mold making. Techniques and costs will vary with the number of parts you want to make.

Hey man that's a wicked looking project...I noticed Traxxas wheels on the end of your wheelie bar...I used the same part!


PS is that fuel tank the alloy version you can get for the HPI Savage?


Looking good, mate

_________________
Go hard...or GO HOME!!!

The paint is pretty much done on the Pro Stocker. I decided on JEGS team colors for simplicity. All the masking was done by hand with painter's tape and an exacto blade.

I'm open to a Conley Stinger donation.

nice to see this project come together. VERY, VERY nice!

_________________
www.quarterscalelegends.com The Awesome history of 1/4 scale!!