www.Quarterscalelegends.com

You've done all the homework, hopefully others will now be inspired to complete their 'u-finish' models.

Hey folks, before I ask my question I want to explain whats going on as some things have changed. If you go back on this thread I was going to cut a slot along the side of the chassis so I could slide the gearbox into position as a whole (as shown in the CAD render compliments of Rcgarage) but instead I took apart the gearbox removing one shaft enabling me to slide the gearbox into a somewhat position, then I will drill a hole large enough to reassemble the shaft and snap ring and secure the gearbox.

I mocked up the sprockets and chain where I roughly want the setup to be, so I could keep the engine back enough to clear the body and not cut any of the chassis at the mid section. Now my question, will the sprockets be to close together and does it make a difference how close or far they are from each other? if someone can please chime in that would be great! Thanks for looking.

In my opinion the mock up position will be OK, so long as the drive chain is not too slack (or tight). Just my opinion. Great work!

Thanks Kaye, The hole for the gearbox is done and fits perfect just need to drill holes to secure the gearbox. The motor mounts are done and installed on engine, had to cut a little portion of the mid upper chassis to fit the engine and will cut the upper plate to match and reinstall. The sprockets also fit perfect with plenty of room inside the body, I still have the exhaust to make, brakes, fuel cell and servo mounts and waiting for a flex coupler from China to connect the clutch bell to the gearbox, but the hardest parts are done.

The body fits perfect, no cuts had to be made and I'm very happy about that. Still have some cleaning up to do and tighten some loose ends. Hope this helps others!

She's lovely. I think Jan Gilmer would be happy with your results.

Thank you Kaye:

The gearbox from zero-max comes with pre-drilled holes that need to be tapped @ 1/4", the holes are to small for any standard bolt or to large for any metric, so tapping is a must.

I'm almost finished with the power plant and drive line and waiting for the coupling to arrive from China, I'm also thinking of installing an auxiliary tension pulley between the sprockets at the bottom of the chain, but not mandatory at this point.

Anyway, I hope this helps others with the U-finish models, I do know there are at least 3 others in the past on this forum looking for some insight. Thanks for looking

Hey folks did some more work today, got the steering servo mounted under the chassis plate next to the throttle servo, throttle servo is complete, just need to get a servo horn and tie rods and tube for the steering, I snaked the servo harness through the slot for the receiver.

I have to get as much as possible done as I'm closing on my house Sept 26th and moving to our new home around Oct 16th, so I don't know how long it will be before I get to play with my projects. Anyway, hope you enjoy

Emilio: I've really enjoyed this build thread. Best wishes for a smooth move to your new home.

Emilio, this is a great project and your work looks superb. Hope to see more soon. I had plans to put a Saito twin in a Gilmer with the same gearbox but ended up selling the car and parts to another forum member. I would have been proud if mine turned out as good as yours.

Thank you Kaye and Bobby.D:

It was actually you Bobby who sparked the fire in my head that the gear-box Jan Gilmer used came up in an archived conversation you and Mike.C were having about your Saito/Gilmer project, and Kaye providing the Pacesetter photo of the drive line. And thanks to Rcgarage for providing the CAD of the Gilmer, we built this not (I) and others can see that with a little dedication the Gilmer can be tailored to your own taste and personality.

I started on the most important part of this project, which anyone will not argue, the brakes! I'm going to ramble on so forgive me. As I was looking at all options on ebay for a hydraulic breaking system, it seemed that they were to small or really had no room for modification.

Recently I purchased the BBS adapters with front calipers and only one rear caliper from John Foster who I can't thank enough. Anyway, I got to thinking that, since I only have one of the 2 rear calipers and 2 rear rotors this makes a perfect opportunity for the Gilmer, that and the fact that the caliper has the tapped and threads in a perfect location. Btw in case anyone is wondering, there is absolute zero room for the caliper inside the body area.

The plan is to take the axle collar that the sprocket replaced and modify to hold the rear rotor, I will then fabricate a caliper bracket to mount onto the existing hardware on the Gilmer, all I would need is to locate a master cylinder and mount it up front. I think you'll get a better idea from the photos. Anyway, this might or might not happen in weeks to come but I'll try. Thanks for looking

Back on the brakes, instead of using the collar that I first intended for the rotor, I realized that as I'm using after market knock off hubs and had the original hubs from the Gilmer sitting in a box. The original hub is perfect for the job at not only keeping the rotor true but gave me less work and puts the caliper much closer to the body which will look better than being further.

I like to document everything I do. I had to slice off a smidge of the caliper to clear the rotor and it worked out great. Now I have to make a bracket that will be strong but also look the part. Talk to you soon

Hey folks, just a mini cosmetic update. I wanted to mount an Abitar DOHC engine for the uniqueness of the double valve covers but sadly couldn't due to it's height. So in order to achieve that double Micky Thompson valve cover look, I cut out the middle four fins in the heat sink, grind as smooth as I could without sacrificing to much meat, painted with automotive engine paint and polished the tops of the fins. It looks better than just having a big ol black heat sink in my opinion

Good creativity. Looking good.

Thanks gearhed

Oh my, that does look good ! It's the little details such as this that put you in the top league of rc model builders.