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Body added for motivational purposes!
I picked up this run down WCM. I’m trying to find out what’s stock or modified..
1. The frame is sectioned to clear the drive belt
2. The torsion bar tubes are are small sections rather than one solid tube
3. The frame is also drilled to hold the very early suspension
4. Frame drilled for early chain drive engine location .

So did the early belt drive GN’s simply use a modified chain drive frame or is this an early car that had been upgraded over the years?
Thank you.

The motor appears to be mounted further forward to provide better steering. I have the same fame but with the ball diff for better cornering. Cutting the fame to allow the belt to pass????? I would move the motor back to the stock location holes if there still there and fix the space. You don't want the exhaust pipe shooting oil on your tire; raise it up to the next bar. I have seen both styles of drive line belt and chain.

steve g:

I love the body shell.

Kaye

Well I surfed the internet looking for other pictures... it seems like the cut frame to clear the belt was common on the dirt track cars and home built stadium truck conversions... this was a dirt track car
The lack of frame bracing and original holes that are not being used tells me this is an early chain drive frame.
For now I’m going to stick it under the bench till I get caught up on a few other projects.

The correct way was to mount a idler pully to lift the belt over the frame. Or add additional crossmember in front of the cut out to brace the frame. The stock drive belt was a 3L260 which moves the motor back closer to the rear wheels.

anytimerc wrote: ↑February 15th, 2022, 5:50 am The correct way was to mount a idler pully to lift the belt over the frame. Or add additional crossmember in front of the cut out to brace the frame. The stock drive belt was a 3L260 which moves the motor back closer to the rear wheels.

New belt for under $10 !!!!
Thanks!

Yes but it depends if there are original old holes behind the motor that will line up with shorter belt? I had one car that had the motor mounted forward but I had two to compare to so I could move the motor back.

anytimerc wrote: ↑February 15th, 2022, 11:13 am Yes but it depends if there are original old holes behind the motor that will line up with shorter belt? I had one car that had the motor mounted forward but I had two to compare to so I could move the motor back.

All the old holes are there , even the holes for the original style front suspension.

On the timing belt side you will see a 1/4" plate bolting the motor to the chassis. From the back of that plate to the back of the frame should be 3-3/8". If the holes line up then your good to go with the shorter belt. The front is fine.

anytimerc wrote: ↑February 15th, 2022, 2:50 pm On the timing belt side you will see a 1/4" plate bolting the motor to the chassis. From the back of that plate to the back of the frame should be 3-3/8". If the holes line up then your good to go with the shorter belt. The front is fine.

Yep.... funny because on my other GN that 1/4” plate was never drilled nor the frame

WOW. What what holding the motor? I never seen one with chain at the motor? NO gear adjustment like the timing belt? I had one 1/4' plate with one mounting hole and my others has two holes. So, I drill the two hole's and moved the motor back and they lined up to use the shorter belt. I replace all the throttle servo trays with carbon fiber to stiffen the brake and for better throttle response. The fiberglass just liked waving when you ran it.

anytimerc wrote: ↑February 16th, 2022, 5:51 am WOW. What what holding the motor? I never seen one with chain at the motor? NO gear adjustment like the timing belt? I had one 1/4' plate with one mounting hole and my others has two holes. So, I drill the two hole's and moved the motor back and they lined up to use the shorter belt. I replace all the throttle servo trays with carbon fiber to stiffen the brake and for better throttle response. The fiberglass just liked waving when you ran it.

It was a pre-production car.. has two mounting brackets on the pull start side to hold the motor... the 1/4” plate and frame location was never drilled so the floor pan could be smooth without any bolts showing, tires never glued, car never ran, the front suspension is basically non functional. Really unique car but made for display only.
I added electronics and fired up the motor just for the heck of it.
I don’t know the entire story behind the car.. wish I could find more information on it.

I started poking around this lump of junk. A few parts were not salvageable. Had to have them made. The rear hubs were reconditioned and are like new.

Dedication = having parts made to bring the model back to life!