RC frame welding and Repair 101
Posted: November 23rd, 2009, 4:52 pm
Hello all!
This is some info I felt I should share for anyone thinking about welding up a RC frame.
First about us (Tammy and I):
We have been racing 1:1 cars, karts, bikes and once a long while ago, RC cars.
We have built full race cars and champ race karts so this is my not my first in house welded frame, but one with all small tubing.
I weld, but it is not my living so I would consider myself a "expert hobbyist?"
I weld with a wire welder and use molly 4130 steel tubing. I do not have the time or money to use a tig. I have all my Tig welding done at a local shop. You will not need to Tig your frame unless you want to. A wire welded frame is very strong . (don't ask me why I know that! )
Welding a RC frame is similar with some noted differences.
Note: A difference of opinion in this subject is always welcome as I am only giving my experiences.
Why would you even attempt to do your own frame????
Pros:
You built it!!
You may have a different power plant that a ready built car will not hold.
Cheaper than a ready built car.
If done right, it s a very strong frame. (don't ask me again why I know that! )
Keeps you in the garage and out of the house, (where you should be?)
Did I mention that YOU built it?
Cons:
Is is heavier than the newer sheet metal frames.
Much more time is involved.
The differences in welding big tubing ( over 1")
Such small tubing needs more fineness to its welding than just melting holes in the stuff. Anyone can stick two pieces of metal together, it is getting the weld to be as strong as the original metal that is the trick.
This small tubing will "pull" when you make the first tack or weld. All of sudden
it is crooked. Make your tack or first weld, let it cool and then check the alignment.
Welding a bead in a straight line (because it is so small) as apposed to sweeping makes for a stronger and better looking weld.
Now that my frame is done, I need to make some changes.....
I just did this change and took some photos (now who is going to admit they did it wrong and show you a better way to fix it??)
The problem...
I made the frame several inches too long so I had some room to put all of my goodies where I wanted to and to have a chance to "balance" the car. Balance is important so you do not do wheel stands and get all of your power to the ground.
In this case I had welded the back body mount to an extension that looked UGLY. I wanted to remove it but not disturb the mount as I gotten the car body just right.
The old UGLY look.
There were some UGLY welds I wanted to remove so this was a double bonus.
The offending section!
First cut and size up the new braces before cutting anything!!
Weld up the new braces with good clean welds....
Braces everywhere!!!
After it as cooled and you have taken measurements to ensure nothing has moved, then cut off the old braces.
Then check your mounting, ground clearance, and such.
Then, if needed, clean up the welds, paint and go have fun!!!!!
Sound easy, doesn't it? It can be IF you take your time.
Enjoy!!!!
Ed
Juiced Drag Racing
This is some info I felt I should share for anyone thinking about welding up a RC frame.
First about us (Tammy and I):
We have been racing 1:1 cars, karts, bikes and once a long while ago, RC cars.
We have built full race cars and champ race karts so this is my not my first in house welded frame, but one with all small tubing.
I weld, but it is not my living so I would consider myself a "expert hobbyist?"
I weld with a wire welder and use molly 4130 steel tubing. I do not have the time or money to use a tig. I have all my Tig welding done at a local shop. You will not need to Tig your frame unless you want to. A wire welded frame is very strong . (don't ask me why I know that! )
Welding a RC frame is similar with some noted differences.
Note: A difference of opinion in this subject is always welcome as I am only giving my experiences.
Why would you even attempt to do your own frame????
Pros:
You built it!!
You may have a different power plant that a ready built car will not hold.
Cheaper than a ready built car.
If done right, it s a very strong frame. (don't ask me again why I know that! )
Keeps you in the garage and out of the house, (where you should be?)
Did I mention that YOU built it?
Cons:
Is is heavier than the newer sheet metal frames.
Much more time is involved.
The differences in welding big tubing ( over 1")
Such small tubing needs more fineness to its welding than just melting holes in the stuff. Anyone can stick two pieces of metal together, it is getting the weld to be as strong as the original metal that is the trick.
This small tubing will "pull" when you make the first tack or weld. All of sudden
it is crooked. Make your tack or first weld, let it cool and then check the alignment.
Welding a bead in a straight line (because it is so small) as apposed to sweeping makes for a stronger and better looking weld.
Now that my frame is done, I need to make some changes.....
I just did this change and took some photos (now who is going to admit they did it wrong and show you a better way to fix it??)
The problem...
I made the frame several inches too long so I had some room to put all of my goodies where I wanted to and to have a chance to "balance" the car. Balance is important so you do not do wheel stands and get all of your power to the ground.
In this case I had welded the back body mount to an extension that looked UGLY. I wanted to remove it but not disturb the mount as I gotten the car body just right.
The old UGLY look.
There were some UGLY welds I wanted to remove so this was a double bonus.
The offending section!
First cut and size up the new braces before cutting anything!!
Weld up the new braces with good clean welds....
Braces everywhere!!!
After it as cooled and you have taken measurements to ensure nothing has moved, then cut off the old braces.
Then check your mounting, ground clearance, and such.
Then, if needed, clean up the welds, paint and go have fun!!!!!
Sound easy, doesn't it? It can be IF you take your time.
Enjoy!!!!
Ed
Juiced Drag Racing