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Here are some pictures of the restoration of the Grizzly project car I purchased form QSL.

I set the frame up on a granite table and gave it some tweaks to get it flat and square.

The front pivot rod was bent so I made a new one. After machining the new rod I took the ends to a sander to give it the same look as the stock one.

None of the rear pivots were included with the car so I made my own. I also made up some dogbones using some ½” balls from an old bearing. The dogbones are not completely like the stock ones. I set the pins 90 degrees apart.

I have tried to copy the stock parts as close as I can using what information I can find. I'm looking for some rear swing arms. I figure if I cant find some used ones I’ll cast some up.

More pictures of the progress

great job keep it up

very very good

Yes I did change the offset of the drive pins of the dogbones. The stock ones had a 0 degree offset but I gave the new ones a 90 degree offset. This will produce a constant output speed as well as reduce vibration and wear . This is also how newer dogbones are set up. I’m not sure why I did it, it’s not like it’ll make a difference because this car won’t see enough run time to wear anything out anyway.

I swing back and forth between making it better and keeping it stock. I figured that the machine turning on the rear end was appropriate because it was popular back when this car was produced.

I still have to make a motor mount and then it’s the big challenge of casting the rear swing arms. I almost forgot I also have to weld a cross tube back into the frame and spot chrome the welded area.

Here’re some before pictures of the car that mike had taken. There is no rear suspension the rear wheels are just sitting next to the car.

I made a little more progress this weekend . The front spindles were cleaned and zinc plated. The axle on the left is what they looked like before I started.

This is one of those “do I leave it stock or do I change it?” things.
I added spacers between the inner bearing races. I know it’s better to have them but they’re not in any of the other Pacesetter cars I have and it’s not shown in the instructions for the other Pacesetter cars.

I added them. I figured that the purest can always remove them.

Hey david this is my spin in the spacer idea, no pun intended. I don't think it matters unless you were planning on actually driving the car, if so then then spacer is a good idea, because any lateral forces on the bearing would be shared by both bearings, not just the outer bearing. It is common practice in most 1/8 and 1/10 scale cars today to have the spacer. When the proper size spacer is used, meaning the width and O.D. are right, you can actually tighten against the two bearings without damaging them, like on many smaller car clutch setups. So on a car that is driven it makes all the difference in the world. I just took another look at how the the hub is attached and yes, with the spacer in you could tighten the center hub nut as tight as you want and not hurt the bearings, without, the center nut could only be tightened so much before your were tearing up the bearings. Hey i like the lime green Chopper, LOL, Glen

Well no one came up with any Pacesetter shocks for my project so I modified some FG shocks that I had laying around. They worked out well . I still need to shorten the bodies about .25”.

Here they are before and after modifying.

Here are the two front shocks installed . I still need to install the correct nuts and bolts, these are used just for fitting things together.

Today I replaced the cross bar that had been cut out of the frame. I used a tube from a broken Jac Rabbit. The tube was already chromed so I didn’t need to chrome the tube only the welded area. I used a brush electro plating system to do the re-plating on the welds. A layer of nickel was first applied and then the chrome. It was much easer that I thought it would be and it looks good!

The first two pictures are after welding and before plating.

that came out really clean. Very nice. I cant wait to see it sitting on its wheels. Did you figure something for the rear arms?

Thanks Mike,
Well now that I have the easy stuff done I'll cast some rear arms . I want to use the loss wax process for making the casting mold. The plan is to melt the aluminum and cast in a vacuum furnace that I have access to. The plan sounds good, I have the materials I just need to go for it and see if I can pull it off.

you are a brave man, but from what i have seen you are very capable. Keep up the awesome work!!!