New guy- RACO Jack Rabbit Restoration and Issues

[vwguru75]

You need a new clutch spring minimum..........you need a clutch spring. Everything you have stated and show in your pictures lead to you needing a new clutch spring. I would replace the clutch spring, and possibly the clutch. Do the spring at least . The clutch spring, it needs replacing.

Sorry to repeat the clutch spring thing, but it does not seem to be sinking in that.............you need a new spring.

The spring makes the shoes drag, creating heat and it will damage other things as a result.

Again, sorry to say it over and over, but it needs to be replaced and avoiding it will cause more expense later on. I understand a budget so if there's anything you may be able to get used you may post in the wanted section. I would not get a used clutch spring though.

P.S. you need a clutch spring.

[vwguru75]

There are two fan housings on ebay right now. Search ZENOAH G2D and you'll see them . They are new. If you do not need new post a want ad for a used one and I'm sure someone will come up with one. I may even have one, I'd have to look in my stash. Let me know.

Oh yeah, don't forget to order a clutch spring.

[jtherrien]

Just took off the clutch bell... I think we've found part of the problem. The entire plastic casing behind the clutch bell is badly melted. If tightened completely down, the bell actually scrapes the deformed plastic. I'll assume it's time for a new clutch and plastics when the site offers them. For now, I guess I'll try to shave the plastic away into a natural shape using a file.

[jtherrien]

And I will replace the clutch spring if not the whole clutch altogether.

[vwguru75]

Granted I don't have the parts in front of me........but I think this is what happened:
Clutch spring got worn. Shoes began dragging. Dragging shoes create excessive heat into drum. Heat travels through drum and into input shaft of trans. This heats the inner bearing. Bearing overheats, cooks all it's grease and melts housing it's sitting in.

Hopefully you can get some trans housing halves if the one's you have are wasted. Check the bearing behind the clutch drum to make sure it turns smoothly. You should be able to get a bearing pretty cheap. You may be able to pick up an entire trans if you keep an eye out.

[PTModIT]

I believe you can buy the gearbox from that site. He told me he was making a production run of them. Give them a call.

[jtherrien]

I'm going to give them a call on Monday. I'll order the new front shock towers at the same time.

vwguru75- awesome explanation, your hypothesis was correct. The input shaft is moving fine, but I'll look into the bearing and add that to the shopping list.

Thanks for all of your help so far guys, you've been really helpful.

Some pics of the carnage:

[PTModIT]

That's a mess.

[vwguru75]

There's normal.......and there's that. That is not normal and will not buff out.

[jtherrien]

Yea, I though so However, on the bright side, I got my new steering servos today - Futaba S3303s. And, I discovered that my old Futaba FP-S134 Throttle servo isn't fried. I thought it was before, but I guess that's $50 less that I need to spend

Current shopping list goes as follows:

Front shock tower
Trans case
Clutch spring + shoes (if not a new clutch altogether)
Fail safe & Remote kill switch
New TX/RX
Fan cover & metric screws

Let me know if you guys have suggestions on fail safes or TX/RXs, within a reasonable price range. I'd like to get something with multi-model memory so I can run the same TX on my nitros as well. There's a budget system out there that I'm sure you've heard of, the FlySky GT3C- seems decent. The name brands seem to be just a bit too expensive for what you get.

[vwguru75]

The flysky is good to go. I run them on some 5th scales I have and have not had any problems (have like 4 of em that work great). RX's are dirt cheap for them as well. The whole tx/rx kit right now is like forty bucks! I like the fsgt3b because it takes AA barreries in the tx and they last for what seems like forever. Go to hobbypartz.com and you'll see them on sale. Pick up some rx's when you order to save on shipping later.0

[jtherrien]

Hey guys- I've held off on the Raco for a week or so now b/c I fixed my nitro at long last. Now that it's in pieces again, I can keep working on the Jac-Rabbit

I'd like to order the FlySky off of hobbypartz but it seems like its always out of stock. Not sure if I should keep waiting or pay the extra $10 on eBay. I'm leaning more towards the gt3c b/c the B seems to have a few features (either dual rates or exponential, I don't remember) that don't work, and I prefer battery packs. Then again, certain colors of the C have power button issues.

I'm trying to order all of my parts off of eBay at the same time. I have yet to find a clutch spring under 7500rpm (does it matter?), and most of the shoes are for a G23 (boat engine?). I'll assume that they are compatable...not sure if I should trust these CY ones from China either.

I detached the front suspension from the chassis in preparation for the shock tower swap out. I don't know how to separate the shock towers from the "axle" that they're both connected to...any ideas?

Thanks for your continued assistance.

[jtherrien]

Just read an article on clutch springs... seems like higher rpm means more "snap", or response.
vwguru75- Why limit myself to a 7000rpm spring? Is that what this engine works best with? Thanks

[jtherrien]

I believe I may have found my answers...
http://csgbenefits.org/mgt/Clutch.htm

I thought that a higher rpm clutch would keep the model from moving while idling - turns out that was b/c of the clutch damage (pardon my obvious inexperience ). I think better acceleration on the low end from a high rpm spring would be cool, but perhaps a lower rpm spring (i.e. the suggested 7000) w/ a little less low-end power and better traction would be a wiser choice for a beginner like myself.

[vwguru75]

Any headway?